The province of Hung Yen is renowned not only for its specialties like longan, ancient temples, and lush green rice fields, but also for preserving a cherished craft passed down through generations—soy sauce making.

There is an age-old verse that praises the four renowned delicacies of the Northern region: “Cốm Vòng, gạo tám Mễ Trì / Tương Bần, húng Láng còn gì ngon hơn?” (Vong young rice, Me Tri fragrant rice / Ban soy sauce, Lang mint—what could taste better?) referring to young rice from Vong village, rice from Me Tri, Ban soy sauce, and mint leaves from Ke Lang. Among these, Ban Yen Nhan soy sauce stands out as a unique treat, once deemed fit for kings. Let's delve into the heart of Ban Yen Nhan village in Hung Yen to uncover the secrets of this beloved artisanal soy sauce.

Ban Yen Nhan Village and Soy Sauce Making

There’s a village located about 30 kilometers east of Hanoi's city center, still bearing many vestiges of the wet rice civilization, that is Ban Yen Nhan village with its renowned fermented soybean sauce, or “Tuong.”

Ban village (now part of Ban Yen Nhan ward, My Hao town, Hung Yen province) is situated in the heart of My Hao town—a land originally cultivated during the reign of the Hung Kings. At that time, it was still marshland, mounds formed from the Red River's sediment. Due to the favorable climate and fertile land, more and more people gathered here over time. They usually grew rice, cultivated mulberries for silkworms, and grew other crops such as corn, sweet potatoes, peanuts, and soybeans. From these soybeans and fragrant rice grains, the local farmers, with their diligence and wisdom, came up with this flavorful soy sauce. It is not to be confused with the black sauce you eat with your Chinese food but rather a thick paste, golden in color, used for dipping spring rolls or in stir-fry dishes.

The people have been making and eating this sauce since the 12th or 13th century. Along with longan, Hung Yen’s specialty fruit, soy sauce was also made for the king to enjoy. Nowadays, Ban soy sauce is as common as any other condiment.

Soy sauce making was considered a household chore, so back then, it was primarily women who made the sauce. The secret to making the perfect Ban soy sauce has been passed down from generation to generation; it's almost unthinkable for a Ban woman not to know how to make soy sauce. Some people would consider making soy sauce to be like sewing, embroidering, or making straw hats—things that were once standards for Vietnamese women.

Nowadays, there are many soy sauce brands that try to recreate and capture the essence of Ban Soy Sauce. When asked about the differences between soy sauce from Ban Yen Nhan and those from other regions such as Duong Lam (Hanoi) or Nam Dan (Nghe An), Mr. Le Dinh Dat, owner of a Ban soy sauce production facility, explains, "People are different, land, rice grains, and soybeans are different, so the soy sauce is different too." The secret to Ban soy sauce lies in the selection of ingredients.

Ban Soy Sauce Craft

The ingredients to make Ban soy sauce are glutinous rice, soybeans, salt, and water. The glutinous rice must be the yellow flower sticky rice (Nếp Cái Hoa Vàng), the soybeans must be the small, firm “Ré” soybeans grown in open fields, the salt must be Hai Hau sea salt, even the pottery jars must be purchased from Tho Ha village (Bac Giang), and the water must be taken from the Danh well of the village, where the water is sweet and clear.

There are three main stages in making Ban soy sauce:

Fermenting the glutinous rice: First, people soak clean glutinous rice and cook it until it becomes sticky rice. When the sticky rice is cooked, it is spread out to cool, then left for 2 days and 2 nights until it has developed yellow mold and a soft and fluffy texture. Some people would even wrap the sticky rice in longan leaves to enhance its aroma.

Fermenting the soybeans: Roast the soybeans until they are cooked, then grind them finely and soak them in a pottery jar filled with water for 7-10 days. When the soybeans turn reddish-yellow, they are ready.

Fermenting the sauce: Pour the water from the fermented soybeans in the pottery jar onto the fermented sticky rice evenly, then leave it for another day and night. When the time is up, mix the sticky rice with the soybeans in the jar along with fine salt, then stir it well. Finally, take it out to dry in the sun for about a month. During this time, people would carefully monitor each jar of sauce daily.

Sunlight is a crucial factor determining the excellent flavor of Ban soy sauce. The stronger the sunlight, the more mature and golden the sauce becomes. If there is insufficient sunlight, the sauce will lose its color, have less aroma, and become less appetizing. Therefore, the ideal time to make Ban soy sauce is during the summer months. After sun-drying, the sauce is bottled, labeled, and sold.

Currently, in the Ban Yen Nhan soy sauce village, there are about 300 workers preserving the craft. Nowadays, people in the village have applied many machines and equipment to increase productivity and quality.

Ban Soy Sauce Village & Thu Sy Bamboo Fish Trap Village Tour

Step off the beaten path and embark on a captivating journey through the rural heartland of Hung Yen province, just a stone's throw away from the bustling streets of Hanoi.

Start your day early in the morning from Hanoi. You can either hire a private car or join a tour group for convenience.

Visit Thu Sy Village: Journey towards Thu Sy Village, located in Hung Yen province, about 60 kilometers from Hanoi.

Meet with local artisans who have been practicing the traditional craft of fish trap making for generations.

Learn about the meticulous process of crafting fish traps using bamboo, a skill passed down through families for centuries.

Witness the craftsmanship involved in creating these essential tools for fishing in the region's rivers and waterways.

Participate in a hands-on workshop to try your hand at weaving bamboo strips.

Lunch Break: Enjoy a traditional Vietnamese lunch featuring local specialties at a nearby restaurant or in the village itself.

After lunch, depart for Ban Yen Nhan, a soy sauce village situated nearby in My Hao town, Hung Yen province.

Enjoy the scenic drive through picturesque countryside landscapes as you make your way to the next destination.

Upon arrival, immerse yourself in the rich cultural heritage of Ban Yen Nhan village, renowned for its centuries-old tradition of soy sauce production.

Meet with local craftsmen and artisans who will guide you through the intricate process of making Ban Yen Nhan soy sauce.

Learn about the selection of ingredients, fermentation techniques, and the importance of sunlight in the production process.

Indulge in a tasting session where you can sample various grades of Ban Yen Nhan soy sauce, each with its unique flavor profile and aroma.

Discover the subtle nuances and complexities of this artisanal condiment as you savor its rich, umami taste.

After a fulfilling day of exploration and discovery, bid farewell to Ban Yen Nhan village and begin your journey back to Hanoi.

=> Thu Sy Village And Its 200-Year-Old Bamboo Fish Trap Craft

=> Bamboo Fish Trap Village - Nom Pagoda - Bat Trang Ceramic Village Tour

=> Why Travel In Vietnam With A Local Agency And An Experienced Tour Guide