Dong Xuan Market is one of the largest markets in Hanoi, located in the Old Quarter of the city. The market has a history that spans hundreds of years, dating back to the feudal era of the Nguyen dynasty. Dong Xuan Market is bordered by Dong Xuan Street to the west, Hang Khoai Street to the north, Cau Dong Street to the south, and Dong Xuan Market Alley to the east.

This is a place where you can find all sorts of products for a great deal. At the main entrance, there is a row of fabric stalls, to the left are fruit vendors, followed by grocery stalls, and then stalls selling meat, vegetables, ironware, and food. There is also a section dedicated to fortune-tellers. In the folk song "Vui nhất là chợ Đồng Xuân" (Happiest is Dong Xuan Market), the lyrics vividly describe the market (and here is my attempt to translate it):

“... Happiest is Dong Xuan Market

In any season, it's always bustling, near and far people come to see and buy

At the central entrance, there's a woman selling coconuts

Stalls of areca nuts, kumquats, melons, and persimmons

Oh, stop and take a look

Bamboo stalls, lively and graceful

Outside the market, there's a woman selling flowers

People exchanging money, coming and going…”

Just like Saigon has its Ben Thanh Market, Dong Xuan Market is the pride and joy of Hanoi and has been a cultural symbol of the capital city for many years. 

A brief history of Dong Xuan Market

During the reconstruction of the Citadel of Thang Long in the summer of 1804, under the Nguyen dynasty, General Nguyen Van Thanh ordered the establishment of a large market at the main eastern gate, now known as Dong Xuan Market.

Although located in the Old Quarter, Dong Xuan Market is much younger than the surrounding streets. It used to be an empty area in Dong Xuan Ward, Tho Xuong District. People gathered for markets on Hang Duong Street and on Hang Buom Street because they were close to the riverbank, convenient for boat transportation. Until 1889, the French cleared these two markets and formed a large one on the area in Dong Xuan Ward, creating the Dong Xuan Market. At first, the market was held outdoors, sometimes with makeshift roofs similar to the two old markets.

It was until 1890 that the French authorities began building Dong Xuan Market. In the early 20th century, the market received products from every region of the country. Fruits from Dalat, vegetables from Sapa then soaps and perfumes from Saigon were delivered in trucks, the market became the popular shopping spot for French, Japanese and Indian women. When vendors became too busy, they would hire helpers called “bâté”. In a book called “Ha Noi the first half of the 20th century”, author Nguyen Van Uan wrote: “These bâté’s were usually children, both boys and girls, under 16 years old who followed customers around while carrying baskets. Customers would put items that they want to buy in these baskets and when they are done shopping, these bâté’s would bring them to their cars and receive tips.”

Since the Democratic Republic of Vietnam took over Hanoi, Dong Xuan Market has become the largest market in the city.

Dong Xuan Day Market

The market was built in the 19th century following French architecture on an area of 6,500 square meters, consisting of 3 arch entrances (initially 5) that correspond with the market’s three domes, with a large corrugated iron roof. 

Dong Xuan Market is primarily a wholesale market, which opens from 6 AM to 6 PM. However, wandering around the market, buyers can still find retail stalls. Inside, the market is divided into three main floors with a full range of essential items. The ground floor is the area for clothes, sunglasses, shoes, suitcases, souvenirs and electronic items such as phones, charging cables, flashlights, speakers, radios... mostly products originating from China. The second floor is the area for both wholesale and retail clothing for adults and various fabrics such as brocade, silk, and satin. The third floor is where they sell goods and clothes for babies and children.

Right behind the grand hall is another market called Bac Qua Market where you find all kinds of food and drinks. Because of the proximity, people sometimes call the whole complex Dong Xuan - Bac Qua Market. 

Dong Xuan Night Market

The market opens every weekend on Fridays, Saturdays, Sundays, and is part of Hanoi pedestrian streets. The Dong Xuan night market is typically most crowded after 8 PM, but you can see vendors setting up their stalls from as early as 5 PM, and the market usually ends late at night, sometimes past midnight. 

Dong Xuan Night Market expands about 3 km across the streets of Hang Ngang, Hang Dao, Hang Duong, all the way from Hoan Kiem Lake, so the atmosphere is much more vibrant compared to the Dong Xuan Day Market. Every weekend, the market’s facade is reserved for a traditional art performance, like Ca Tru (musical storytelling) or Cheo (satirical musical theater). Across thousands of stalls, you can find a diverse range of products, from accessories, clothes, souvenirs, household goods to food and drinks. Some stalls in the markets are dedicated to recreation, like sand coloring or statue painting. Further away near the Hoan Kiem Lake, you can see a few young dynamic people dancing to a hit K-Pop song, or a group of friends gathering in a circle for a round of board game. Even if you’re not buying anything, strolling through the night market is already an exciting experience.

The market is also a haven for food lovers. Numerous food stalls and street vendors line the streets, offering a variety of Vietnamese street food and snacks like grilled barbecue (thit xien), porridge, o mai, etc. You can even find some Korean foods as well, such as rice cakes, noodles, and rice rolls. 

Discover local food

If you’re hungry from a full day of shopping in Dong Xuan Market, you also have the opportunity to experience a heaven for Vietnamese cuisine nestled in a tiny alley that's just a few steps away from the market. For me personally, Dong Xuan alley is a place that is associated with childhood. I vividly remember being taken here on a Saturday morning for a nice bowl of sticky rice, or having a delicious bowl of Pho Tiu after school. Even though I don’t have as many chances to visit the market nor the alley anymore, they still hold a special place in my heart as well as many other Hanoians.

The beauty of this food alley is that you can have a variety of delicious dishes for less than 50.000 VND, or under 100.000 VND if you want a drink and dessert as well! You can find almost anything within this tiny place like sticky rice, Pho Tiu, rice porridge, bun cha, beef jerky salad, che, etc. Browse through the many kiosks in this alley and you will surely find a stall that’s calling out to you!

Tips for visiting

Dong Xuan Market Opening hours: Dong Xuan Market is a large and bustling market with multiple sections that can have different opening hours depending on the day of the week. The interior section of the market opens 6 AM - 6 PM from Monday to Thursday, and 6 AM - 10:30 PM from Friday to Sunday. However, you can find many food stalls around the market that open from early morning past midnight so you won’t have to worry about what to eat if you want to have a late bite after a night out.

Bargaining in Dong Xuan Market: You’re probably aware of bargain culture in Vietnam already. Well, bargaining is especially common in Dong Xuan Market. You’ll find vendors initially quoting higher prices for a product, especially for foreigners, so don’t hesitate to negotiate to get the best deals. The trick is to carefully choose a price that’s lower than what you’re actually willing to pay for, (which the vendor is not going to settle for), then work your way up until you land on a mutual agreement. You should also avoid bargaining early in the morning as it’s considered bad luck.

Pick-pockets in Dong Xuan Market: Again, Dong Xuan Market is a large and bustling market, there’s always a lot of people coming in and out, especially during weekends and peak hours. So you need to keep an eye on your belongings and watch out for pickpockets. Make sure not to bring valuable stuff with you and keep your wallet and phones in a front pocket. You should also wear your backpack to the front for extra safety! 

How to get there

There are many ways to get to Dong Xuan Market. Tourists can choose personal means of transportation such as bicycles, motorbikes, cars, taxis, or ride-sharing services. If you prefer to travel by bus, you can catch buses on routes that have stops near the market. For example:

- Route 1: Gia Lam Bus Station - Yen Nghia.

- Route 4: Long Bien Bus Station - Nuoc Ngam Bus Station.

- Route 8: Long Bien Bus Station - Dong My.

In addition, bus routes 3, 11, 18, 22, 23, 31, 34, and 40 all have suitable routes to reach Dong Xuan Market.

Next to the market is a motorbike parking area with a fee of only 10,000 VND per bike. Tourists can park their bikes here to explore the market on foot or stroll through the Old Quarter.

Final thoughts

Not just a bustling and lively marketplace, Dong Xuan Market also holds many cultural and spiritual values and has become an indispensable destination for every visitor of the city. In the words of the author Bang Son: "Anyone who had the chance to visit Hanoi, you’ve only seen a small part, a tiny piece of Hanoi or none at all, if you haven’t been to Dong Xuan Market."

=> Top 10 best things to do in Hanoi