In Vietnam, every city has a dish that represents its heartbeat. In Hanoi, it might be pho. In Hue, it’s bun bo Hue. But in Hai Phong—a vibrant northern port city known for its feisty spirit and bustling energy—that dish is undoubtedly banh da cua. A rich, flavorful crab noodle soup featuring chewy red rice noodles, sweet crab meat, and aromatic herbs, banh da cua is more than a dish—it’s a culinary love letter to Hai Phong’s land and sea.

This blog post is your ultimate guide to banh da cua. We’ll explore its origin, ingredients, how it’s made, where to eat it, how to cook it at home, and why this humble dish deserves global recognition. Whether you're a foodie, a traveler, or simply curious about Vietnamese cuisine, prepare for a deep dive into the soul of Hai Phong in a bowl.

What Is Banh Da Cua?

The Name and the Noodles

The term banh da cua can be broken down into three parts: banh da (a type of flat rice noodle), do (red, referring to its color), and cua (crab). The standout feature of this dish is the reddish-brown rice noodles made from a special blend of rice flour and natural plant ash. These noodles are thicker, chewier, and slightly smoky—giving them a depth of flavor that pairs beautifully with the crab-based broth.

The Broth and the Soul

The broth is the soul of any Vietnamese noodle dish, and banh da cua is no exception. It’s made by slowly simmering field crabs, finely pounded to release their natural sweetness, and then strained to yield a delicate, slightly briny broth. The resulting liquid is light yet rich in crab essence, sometimes enhanced with pork bones or dried shrimp for added umami.

Toppings and Textures

A bowl of banh da cua typically includes:

• Fresh crab meat

• Crab cakes (cha cua) made from ground crab and pork

• Morning glory (rau muong), banana flower, and fresh herbs

• Fried shallots

• Sometimes fish balls, boiled quail eggs, or tofu

The dish is finished with a spoonful of chili vinegar, sometimes a dash of mam tom (fermented shrimp paste), and always a lot of love.

Origins: Born From The Port City

Hai Phong, located near the Gulf of Tonkin, has long thrived on its access to the sea. Fishing, shipbuilding, and trade are pillars of the city's economy—and its cuisine reflects this maritime identity. Field crabs are abundant in the surrounding rice paddies and rivers, making them a natural foundation for many local dishes.

Banh da cua began as a simple homemade soup, a way for working-class families to make use of local ingredients. Over time, its reputation grew, evolving from a household staple to a beloved street food, and finally to a symbol of Hai Phong's cultural identity. Today, no visit to Hai Phong is complete without a steaming bowl of banh da cua.

Key Ingredients Explained

Red Rice Noodles (Banh Da Do)

These noodles are often sun-dried and contain natural coloring agents like ash from certain leaves, which give them their unique hue and slightly nutty flavor. Unlike pho noodles, banh da is flatter and chewier, providing a textural contrast to the tender crab meat.

Field Crabs

The crabs used are not the large sea crabs you'd find in upscale restaurants. Instead, they are small freshwater field crabs, common in northern Vietnamese rice paddies. Despite their size, they pack a sweet, concentrated flavor perfect for broths.

Crab Cakes (Cha Cua)

A quintessential topping, these cakes are made by mixing crab meat with minced pork, shallots, pepper, and fish sauce. They are either steamed or lightly fried, adding a meaty and savory punch to the bowl.

Vegetables and Herbs

Local greens like morning glory, shredded banana blossom, and herbs such as Vietnamese coriander and perilla are added for freshness and crunch.

Flavor Enhancers

• Fried shallots for sweetness

• Chili vinegar for acidity

• Mam tom (optional) for depth

How To Eat Banh Da Cua Like A Local

Timing Is Everything

Locals often enjoy this dish in the morning or around lunchtime. Vendors usually sell out by early afternoon, so it's best to arrive early.

Don’t Skip The Herbs

Herbs are not just garnish—they are essential to the Vietnamese balance of flavor. Mix them in to fully appreciate the depth of the broth.

Customize Your Bowl

Add chili, squeeze in some lime, or request extra crab cakes. There’s no one right way—just your way.

Top Places To Try Banh Da Cua In Hai Phong

1. Co Yen’s Banh Da Cua – 2B Pham Ngu Lao Street

A favorite among locals and tourists alike, Co Yen’s shop is known for its rich broth and tender crab cakes.

What makes it special: Generous portions and homemade chili sauce.

2. Ba Cu’s Banh Da Cua – 179 Cau Dat Street

This family-run restaurant has served banh da cua for decades. It's a place where the flavors feel like home.

Don’t miss: The optional fish balls and fried tofu.

3. Ky Dong Street Vendors

For a truly local experience, try one of the small street carts on Ky Dong street. Pull up a plastic stool and enjoy your bowl like a true Hai Phong native.

Local tip: Pair it with a glass of iced green tea.

Cooking Banh Da Cua At Home

If you’re far from Vietnam, bring Hai Phong to your kitchen with this simplified recipe.

Ingredients:

• 500g field crabs (or substitute crab meat)

• 200g red rice noodles

• 200g ground pork

• 1 egg

• Shallots, garlic, and chili

• Morning glory or spinach

• Fish sauce, pepper, salt

Instructions:

1. Make the crab broth: Pound or blend the crabs with water, strain, and simmer until crab fat rises.

2. Prepare the crab cakes: Mix ground pork, egg, chopped shallots, and crab meat. Form into patties and steam.

3. Cook the noodles: Boil and rinse under cold water.

4. Assemble: In a bowl, add noodles, vegetables, crab cakes, and pour over hot broth.

5. Garnish: Top with fried shallots and a splash of chili vinegar.

Beyond The Bowl: What Banh Da Cua Represents

A Link To Heritage

In a rapidly modernizing Vietnam, banh da cua remains a stronghold of tradition. It represents home-cooked love, neighborhood pride, and the ingenuity of making something extraordinary from simple ingredients.

A Window Into Hai Phong

To eat banh da cua is to understand Hai Phong’s spirit—resilient, bold, and bursting with life. Unlike Hanoi’s more refined culinary style or Saigon’s southern sweetness, Hai Phong food is salty, savory, and intense—just like the people who call it home.

Other Must-Try Dishes In Hai Phong

• Nem cua be: Fried crab spring rolls

• Banh mi cay: Spicy pate baguettes

• Oc luoc: Steamed sea snails with lemongrass

• Bun tom: Noodle soup with freshwater shrimp

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)

Is Banh Da Cua Spicy?

Not by default, but you can always add fresh chili or chili vinegar to adjust the heat.

Is It Suitable For Vegetarians?

Traditional banh da cua contains crab and pork, but some shops may offer vegetarian versions with tofu and mushroom broth.

Can I Find Banh Da Cua Outside Hai Phong?

While it’s possible in cities like Hanoi or Saigon, the best versions are found in Hai Phong.

Final Thoughts: A Bowl Worth Traveling For

Banh da cua may not be as globally famous as pho, but for those who make the journey to Hai Phong and taste it fresh, the reward is unforgettable. It’s a dish that tells a story—of resilience, tradition, and flavor passed down through generations. It’s Vietnam in a bowl, waiting to be discovered.

Don’t let your Vietnam trip be complete without diving into a bowl of banh da cua. Walk the busy streets, follow the scent of simmering broth, and sit among the locals as you savor one of Vietnam’s most soul-stirring dishes

Here's some information about dishes in Hai Phong:

>>> Top 10 dishes that you can't miss in Hai Phong

>>> Hai Phong food tour - Nem cua bể