Vietnamese cuisine, or particularly Hanoi’s cuisine, is more than just Pho, Banh Mi, and Bun Cha. There is a lot more to it that doesn’t get the recognition it deserves. If you’re visiting Hanoi, you’ve got to check out Cha Ca La Vong—a culinary gem that is not talked about enough. Whether you're a local or just visiting, diving into a plate of Cha Ca La Vong is like getting a delicious taste of Hanoi's rich history. So, let’s dive into what makes this dish so special and where you can find the best spots to enjoy it!

What Is Cha Ca La Vong

Growing up in Hanoi, I’ve always considered Cha Ca La Vong to be something so fancy and great that I could only have it on special occasions. As an adult, it is still something I hold dearly, and I think this goes for every Hanoian. So, what is Cha Ca La Vong? It's a deliciously unique fish dish that originated in Hanoi, typically made with turmeric-marinated catfish fried up with heaps of fresh dill and green onions right at your table. Served with vermicelli noodles, peanuts, and shrimp paste, it's a full-on flavor experience. This dish isn't just a meal; it's a part of Hanoi's history and a must-try if you ever find yourself in Vietnam's capital city.

Cha Ca La Vong’s History

Cha Ca La Vong is named after a specific restaurant in Hanoi that's been serving it for over a century, and it's so iconic that it even has a street named after it.

Nearly 200 years ago, during the French colonial period, at house number 14 on Hang Son Street (now known as Cha Ca Street), there was a patriotic Doan family renowned for making delicious Cha Ca. It was in this very house that Doan Xuan Phuc and his wife, Bi Thi Van, sheltered revolutionary soldiers of De Tham. The couple had exceptional culinary skills and often prepared Cha Ca to treat the soldiers after their victories.

As time went by, in order to provide a safe gathering place and hideout for the soldiers, Phuc came up with the idea of opening a restaurant specializing in Cha Ca as a disguise. Later, when Doan Xuan Phuc's revolutionary activities were exposed, he was executed by the French colonists. However, the restaurant became popular, and Hang Son Street was renamed Cha Ca Street.

In the restaurant, there was a statue of Chinese politician Jiang Ziya (pronounced La Vong in Vietnamese) sitting and fishing. The locals referred to the restaurant as Cha Ca La Vong, and later the restaurant's name became the name of the dish. Today, the original restaurant, Cha Ca La Vong in Hanoi, still exists and was listed in the book “1000 Places to Visit Before You Die” by author Patricia Schultz.

Cha Ca La Vong Recipe

In the past, the Doan family only used catfish to make Cha Ca because its meat is sweet, fragrant, lean, and has few bones. Nowadays, this fish has become rare and is replaced by other fish like river catfish or snakehead fish, but none of them can match the deliciousness.

For an authentic Cha Ca La Vong recipe, start by cleaning the catfish, cut the meat into pieces about the size of two fingers, and marinate (for 2 hours) with galangal, fermented rice, pepper, fish sauce, and a bit of shrimp paste—an essential ingredient that gives Cha Ca La Vong its flavor. The fish is then clamped in bamboo tongs, brushed with a layer of fat to prevent sticking, and grilled over hot coals, turning regularly until golden. Once cooled, the fish is removed from the tongs and set aside in a bowl. When ready to enjoy Cha Ca La Vong, the golden grilled fish is placed into a pan of sizzling fat, accompanied by long-cut dill (lots of) and spring onions.

The key is to fry the fish in fat (chicken fat, fish fat, or pork fat) because it heats to a higher temperature than oil and imparts a richer flavor. Many people might not know, but the Doan family traditionally used dog fat to prepare Cha Ca La Vong.

This dish is best eaten while hot, accompanied by crispy sesame rice crackers or vermicelli, roasted peanuts, cilantro, mint, dill, and fresh sliced onions. All these ingredients are dipped into a frothy bowl of shrimp paste mixed with lemon juice, chili, and sugar. Adding a bit of cà cuống essence and a few drops of Vietnamese rice wine to the shrimp paste makes it even better.

How To Eat Cha Ca La Vong

If you don’t know how to eat Cha Ca La Vong like a local, here are two popular ways to enjoy it:

1. Place the grilled fish into a pan of fat, then add spring onions and dill. Once the vegetables are slightly wilted, take them out. To eat, put a bit of vermicelli in a bowl, add herbs and a few pieces of Cha Ca on top, sprinkle with some roasted peanuts, drizzle with shrimp paste, and mix well. When eating, the aroma of the shrimp paste blends with the sweetness of the fish, the fragrance of the herbs, and the nutty taste of the roasted peanuts. The fish can get a little fatty, so you can pair it with finely sliced onion stems soaked in diluted vinegar.

2. Put the Cha Ca, spring onions, and dill into a bowl, drizzle with boiling fat, and serve immediately. This can be eaten with crispy sesame rice crackers. This method ensures the fish stays warm and delicious.

Besides these two methods, some people stir-fry the vermicelli quickly with the fish, dill, and spring onions in the pan, then transfer it to a bowl to eat. This method makes sure everything is hot and delicious but can get a bit greasy. You can also wrap the Cha Ca, vermicelli, dill, and spring onions in rice paper, roll them up, and then dip the whole thing in shrimp paste.

This dish pairs well with alcohol and is especially suitable for cold weather. In hot weather, you can drink a cold beer instead.

Where To Eat Cha Ca La Vong?

In Hanoi

What better place to eat Cha Ca La Vong Hanoi than its birthplace? Here are some of the best places to eat Cha Ca La Vong in Hanoi:

Cha Ca La Vong—The original restaurant

• Address: 14 Cha Ca, Hang Bo, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi

• Opening hours: 11:00 AM – 2:00 PM and 5:00 PM – 9:00 PM

• Price: 350,000 VND/serving

Cha Ca Thang Long

• Address: 19-21-31 Duong Thanh, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi

• Opening hours: 10:30 AM – 1:30 PM and 5:30 PM – 8:30 PM

• Price: 150,000–170,000 VND/person

Cha Ca Anh Vu

• Address: 120K1 Giang Vo, Ba Dinh, Hanoi

• Opening hours: 10:00 AM – 2:00 PM and 5:00 PM – 10:00 PM

• Price: 140,000 VND/serving

Cha Ca La Vong Nguyen Truong To

• Address: 107 Nguyen Truong To, Ba Dinh, Hanoi

• Opening hours: 8:00 AM–11:00 PM

• Price: 110,000 VND/serving

Cha Ca Phan Ha Hoi

• Address: 14 Nguyen Binh Khiem, Hai Ba Trung, Hanoi

• Opening hours: 9:00 AM–10:00 PM

• Price: 240,000 VND/serving

In Saigon

Cha Ca Ha Noi Pho

• Address: 33 Star Hill, Duong So 10, District 7

• Opening hours: 6:30 AM – 10:00 PM (Usually busy at 12:00 PM)

• Price: About 100,000 - 350,000 VN

Ganh Pho Co

• Address: 7 Han Thuyen, Ben Nghe, District 1

• Opening hours: 7:30 AM – 10:00 PM

• Price: About 15,000 - 200,000 VND

Nha Hang Cha Ca La Vong

• Address 1: 7 Ho Xuan Huong, District 3

• Address 2: 1000 Nguyen Van Linh, District 7

• Address 3: 106 Hoa Phuong, Phu Nhuan

• Opening hours: 11:00 AM – 1:40 PM; 5:00 PM – 9:30 PM (Usually busy at 12:00 PM and 7:00 PM)

• Price: About 50,000 - 200,000 VND

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