In May 2018, we visited Seo Lung during a Vietnam tour, a remote hamlet of the white Hmong, located on the flanks of the Three Fairies Mountains, known as Phu Ta Ca. This is also the second highest point in the province of Ha Giang and, because of its protective inaccessibility, one of the last borders of Vietnam.

Our stay in Seo Lung took place under a beautiful sun. After the rain, the sun came back quickly. However, at an altitude of 1200 meters, the clouds and the mist are almost permanent, conferring mystery to the natural setting: mountains pursuing mountains, green flora extending to infinity, and a set dotted with Hmong eagles' nests, each composed of a dozen wooden houses.

We stopped in the middle of a pass where the bus could not continue its journey because of the narrowness of the road and the presence of sharp stones. We continue walking to Mr. So's home, a white Hmong family from Seo Lung. A pretty traditional wooden house and smiling guests reserve us an intimate and warm welcome, despite the rustic living conditions in this isolated corner of the frenzy of the world.

The next morning, following Sy, Mr. So's son, we went to discover his village and its surroundings. The white Hmong of Seo Lung inhabit these mountain flanks and live mainly in semi-autarky. Despite the difficulties of the rocky terrain, they adapt and create impressive masterpieces: the cornfields in the rocky areas and the rice terraces stretching over the slopes of the mountains. Each house in Hmong is covered with a plant arch made of peach, pear and plum trees. In the spring, Seo Lung enters the flowering season, and these give romantic pink and white flowers. In summer and autumn, the branches fill with lush green leaves and give tasty fruit.

After crossing the Hmong hamlets, we continued along the trails lined with purple wildflowers to access the forest of Seo Lung. In this season, with the showers being more regular, the primary flora that covers the highest mountains becomes sparkling. In the forest, under the shade of centuries-old trees, beside the mosses, lichens and ferns, appear red berries shining like rubies—the cardamom—the real treasure and fortune of white Hmong populating the region. It is necessary to wait a few more months for these fruits to ripen, but as of summer they surprise many walkers thanks to their exotic perfume and their pretty appearance. Around September-October, at the harvest season, with baskets on their backs, the Hmong pick up cardamom in the forest, then dry it and sell it as medicinal spices or herbs for the treatment of the troubles. intestinal or malaria.

In the evening, we went back to Mr. So's house after this day's walk. To help us relax, the hosts invited us to a hearty meal and special herbal remedies: sagebrush and lemongrass, good for the blood; jiaogulan for the purification of the body; and finally, young cardamom simmered with salt, good for digestion.

Before leaving Seo Lung, we had the opportunity to help the villagers to restore the kindergarten by remaking the yard and planting trees. The little children welcomed us with their innocent smiles. They also taught us the courage and perseverance of the peoples of the peaks. Every day, they have to cross long stony paths to go to school.

To discover more the beauty of Ha Giang province 

=> Top 20 + best things to do in Ha Giang